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stangri
09/01/2010, 12:38 PM
So I'm about to send the deposit for the VX which is all the way back east and even tho it's going to cost about same as have the car delivered I figured I'd make a road trip out of it. :)

The seller advised me that:
1. There's not much tread left on the tires and I'll need new ones
2. Oil & filter will probably need replacing

So the questions I have are:
1. VX currently has stock rims -- what sort of tires are best for driving on wet roads? I do not expect to be doing much off-roading besides driving on gravel once a month or so, but living in North-West I'm very concerned about driving in the rain. I've had a 3-door Landcruiser Prado overseas and the stock Dunlop tires were horrible -- it was like I was driving a different car when I switch to Michelins. So whoever is still staying with stock rims -- what tires did you like and why?

Also, what's the cheapest source for tires in US? I've looked at tirerack, discounttire and costco. Anything else I'm missing?

2. Are there national mechanic chains which specialize in the oil changes? Are they likely to have suitable oil filter for VX?

3. What are the Isuzu recommended major services -- 20/60/100? How expensive are they and what do they include?

4. Finally -- what should be used to de-badge the car? How do I remove all the logos from the back, sides and the grill of the car? :)

Thanks!

hyperkid
09/01/2010, 01:20 PM
Currently I have the Kumho Road Venture AT KL78 and before that I had Bridgestone Dueler. I enjoyed both tires. They gave me good street performance and the agility to do some light off-road if I wanted too. Both were great in the rain/snow for me. Bridgestone makes the MT D673 which has a nice aggresive look while steel giving good street performance. I just called around town and got quotes from all the tire shops and went with the cheapest. The shop I went with gave me my 4th tire free. As far as the scheduled maintenance I highly recommend going to the downloads section and getting the service manual CD. If you search the forum you will find some information there as well. Oil Changes...DIY - you can get the filters anywhere they are not solely just for the VX and much of the maintenance you can DIY. The badges are easy - some fishing wire, water and soap, and some polish to remove the residue and clean it up. When I first removed my back USUZU there was a hazy outline which quickly went away after a hand buff with some good polish. Since you are a new VXer there are some things you will probably want to do upfront and my fellow VXers would agree - Replace your fuel filter, pull your EGR,TPS and MAF sensors and clean them (super easy to do) - Spray your window tracks with silicone spray and MOST importantly, check your oil regularly.

Well that's my .02 anybody else got anything

Welcome to the family - your going to have loads of fun with your VX

circmand
09/01/2010, 01:28 PM
80,000 mile tires from PepBoys for $700 with a $110 rebate. It incleded everything, tires, stems, disposal, road hazard and a front end allignment. I am not sure if they have Pep Boys back East

RickOKC
09/01/2010, 01:51 PM
I don't have the expertise in tires to make a recommendation, but I sure like the Surveys tab on TireRack. They rank various aspects of the tire and you can also select the link to "Compare This Tire to Other ____ Tires" of the same general style. I suspect "who's cheaper" may depend on the tire.

Go to the Downloads section (<---- left column) and find the VX Owner's Manual. It has all the recommended service intervals. Even if you get a paper copy with your VX, having an electronic copy is handy to have around, too. I keep it at work, at home, on my phone… :)

On other forums, I've read about people using dental floss, fishing line or light weed trimmer line to carefully saw through the adhesive between the paint and the badges. Don't use anything metal unless you like scratches! The remaining adhesive can be removed with Goo-Gone, WD-40 or 3M Adhesive Remover (without acetone!) I think an old terrycloth rag works best because the texture helps remove the glue as it becomes a mess. Don’t use paper towels (they can scratch).

etlsport
09/01/2010, 03:29 PM
I know around my way its not so much who is cheapest as it is who has the best service. I know that every major shop within 20 miles of mine price matches the competition. find a place with a good reputation and see what kind of deals they offer for tires.

the tires you choose is completely based on what you intend to do with your VX and what you expect from them. the VX tires sizing allows for many AT tires as well as many high performance street tires.

the oil filter is insanely common. its found on older hondas (94 accord comes to mind) so you can find that anywhere. the Mobil1 number is m1-104. the Purolator number is 14459. I've found that many of the parts are easy to come by, Moog has a whole line of suspension parts, Wagner has a whole line of brake parts. All of them are common enough that I've convinced my shop manager to allow me to keep them on hand, just in case

navistar
09/01/2010, 06:05 PM
If you don't know the service records then replacing all the fluids would be a good idea, oil, transmission fluid, differential, transfer, cooling.

Park it in the direct sun for a while. When it's heated up you can pick the badging off with your finger nail easily without scuffing the finish.

The grill badge has to be pried out. It'll break in the process probably.

Mile High VX
09/01/2010, 06:21 PM
x2 on changing all of the fluids. Don't use any synthetic fluid in the transmission...it won't like it.

I debadged mine by heating the emblems with a hair dryer and lifting them off with some small guage fishing line. Goo Gone for the leftover glue and then a good rub with ScratchX and a microfiber cloth to remove the shadow that was left over. When I heated the front emblem and removed it, it did not break.

I'm sure Riff will be along to answer your tire questions.

VX KAT
09/01/2010, 07:22 PM
[QUOTE=Mile High VX;203981]x2 on changing all of the fluids. Don't use any synthetic fluid in the transmission...it won't like it.
QUOTE]

???? I put Royal Purple MAX ATF synth transmission fluid in over a year ago. Several other forum members use it too...what's the issue with using synth in our transmission?? Did I miss something significant?

djvx
09/01/2010, 09:32 PM
I'm sure Riff will be along to answer your tire questions.[/QUOTE]

:bwgy:

Riff Raff
09/02/2010, 01:45 AM
The seller advised me that:
1. There's not much tread left on the tires and I'll need new ones

So the questions I have are:
1. VX currently has stock rims -- what sort of tires are best for driving on wet roads? I do not expect to be doing much off-roading besides driving on gravel once a month or so, but living in North-West I'm very concerned about driving in the rain. So whoever is still staying with stock rims -- what tires did you like and why?

Also, what's the cheapest source for tires in US? I've looked at tirerack, discounttire and costco. Anything else I'm missing?


Welcome to our tight-knit family of VX fanatics. You didn't mention your VX year of manufacture, but I'll assume it's a 2000/2001 with OEM 18x7 rims. I'll chime in with a couple of tire recommendations that may be a nice match for your specific geographical location of British Columbia. Being a very close neighbor to you in the PNW, I feel you will need a tire that can handle multiple facets of adverse weather conditions including excessive rain and deep snow.

In this regard, a lightweight All-Terrain (A/T) tire with the prestigious "Snowflake/Mountain" rating will be your best match for driving in the PNW. I have only two(2) tire recommendations that meet this criteria (lightweight + S/M rated), and they are essentially only different by O.D. Thus, you can make a choice based on the "look" (wider for a meaner appeal) or for "higher ground clearance" (taller for off-road). Both of these tires are bolt-on perfect on a "non-lifted" 100% stock VX when used with the OEM 18x7 Stock Rims, and may/may not require very slight trimming of the front cladding depending upon fitment.

They are:

A. Pro-Comp, All-Terrain (A/T) in 285/60R18 (31.4" O.D./43 lbs). Pick this lightweight tire if you prefer a wide/mean look with sporty handling. They are somewhat expensive as they are Pro-Comp's with a 50,000 mile warranty, and are easily available at www.4WheelParts.com and their national service centers. Fellow member BorderCross2000 has this specific tire mounted on OEM 18x7 Stock Rims on his VX.

B. General, Grabber AT2 in P275/65R18-116S (32" O.D./44 lbs). Pick this lightweight tire if you prefer increased off-road ground clearance and want your VX to ride visually higher without lifting the suspension. These are incredible tires at a bargain price of only around $150 each. There are multiple members here (including myself) that have this specific tire mounted on OEM 18x7 Stock Rims on their VX.

In addition to the websites you indicated, please check-out:

1. www.tires-easy.com (super-low prices).
2. www.onlinetires.com (unique tires)
3. www.1010tires.com (excellent multi-tire calculator & tech info)

:bgwb:

stangri
09/02/2010, 04:23 AM
Thanks so much! I'll check out all recommendations!

Another question I forgot to post earlier -- The car comes with only one key and no remote -- has anyone installed an immobilizer system on VX? If so, what did you install and how much time did it take? Also what other Isuzu models use compatible key blanks so I can find them on ebay easier?

Ah, also I'm a bit concerned about putting bigger than stock tires -- if I go for a wider tire (285/60) how can I ensure the fitment so that I wouldn't have to trim cladding?

thanks!

RickOKC
09/02/2010, 07:10 AM
My spare key has the following: ILCO X184 B65

A web search didn't tell me what specific vehicles use the same blank (beyond GM, Honda, Isuzu, Geo) but the photos looked like my spare.

etlsport
09/02/2010, 07:11 AM
if you are not sold on larger tires, the VX factory size tires are just fine. I have not been impressed by the Dueler H/T in the snow though. The VX does look much better with larger tires though!. You can always go in the middle of factory and RiffRaffs suggestion.

a 265/60/18 is a good in between tire size that will require no cladding cutting at all if used with factory wheels. When I got my new tires I considered

Goodyear Fortera Tripletred
Bridgestone Dueler APT4
Falken ST/Z01

All in a 265/60/18. The goodyear was most expensive, but offered the best traction by far. It is severe weather rated with the mountain/snowflake symbol, but not nearly as loud as the A/T tires recommended by riffraff they have a 60,000 mile warranty. In my experience they do last every bit of that 60,000 miles if you maintain them properly. On the downside, if you don't rotate them and have alignments done when needed, they will wear very badly because of the tread design.

The Dueler APT4 is a good agressive looking tire with squared off shoulders, but has no big gaping holes in the tread so its still reasonably quiet on the road while maintaining good snow traction as well as rain/dry comfort and traction. It also has a 60,000 mile warranty (This tire is a Sears only, so may not be available for you) The Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo is not too different, and much more widely available

The Falken is the tire I have the least experience with. It is considered UHP (ultra high performance) and has a directional tread pattern which should help wet traction. no real experience with them, but from reviews and seeing the tire, it looked to be a pretty good option. They have a 50,000 mile warranty

I ended up with the Falken STZ04 which is non directional and a touch more aggressive, I have been very happy with them so far (but had to go a size larger to 285/60/18) as they aren't offered in a 265.

Mile High VX
09/02/2010, 12:00 PM
[QUOTE=Mile High VX;203981]x2 on changing all of the fluids. Don't use any synthetic fluid in the transmission...it won't like it.
QUOTE]

???? I put Royal Purple MAX ATF synth transmission fluid in over a year ago. Several other forum members use it too...what's the issue with using synth in our transmission?? Did I miss something significant?

I remember reading a post by a fellow member that had trouble with the synthetic fluid he used in his transmission. It was so bad he had to take it out. I looked but couldn't find the post that I remember...

hyperkid
09/02/2010, 03:50 PM
If you search Ebay often you will come across a replacement keyfob. You have the factory alarm/door lock which isn't really worth a whole lot. I have read in the forums somewhere others have installed aftermarket alarms. We should start a thread on this I could really go for getting a new security system myself.

VX KAT
09/02/2010, 05:32 PM
Thanks so much! I'll check out all recommendations!

Another question I forgot to post earlier -- The car comes with only one key and no remote -- has anyone installed an immobilizer system on VX? If so, what did you install and how much time did it take? Also what other Isuzu models use compatible key blanks so I can find them on ebay easier?

Ah, also I'm a bit concerned about putting bigger than stock tires -- if I go for a wider tire (285/60) how can I ensure the fitment so that I wouldn't have to trim cladding?

thanks!

REMOTE KEY FOB: PART NUMBER: BAB237131-013 - 2-90101-701-0
I'm not sure if the alarm system was standard, so FIRST make sure you have the alarm system. The control box is WAY up under your left foot well and off to the left side. It's black, about the size of a in dash CD player and has a BRIGHT GREEN button on it. I have a picture of it if you need it, just holler.
I have the easy programming instructions for the remote, it's really easy to do.

Here's a post I made in Feb. that has several references:
http://vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=184815&postcount=10

http://www.originalkeyless.com/product.sc?productId=1256&categoryId=13

There's currently 4 OEM remotes on ebay that will work. These are the genuine OEM remote, be careful and note that several are selling a knock off replacement remote...just decide which you want and make sure you are sure which one you're getting.
http://desc.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=BAB237131-013+-+2-90101-701-0&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=1&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=BAB237131-013+-+2-90101-701-0&_osacat=0&_rdc=1


KEYS:
There's several Vehicross keys on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-2001-2002-00-01-02-Isuzu-VehiCROSS-Key-Blank-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a0d65d5eQQitemZ29046 1211998QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_500wt_698


TRIMMING CLADDING TO FIT 285/60-18 TIRES ON OEM RIMS:
I have that size tire on OEM 18" rims, and NO TB cranked, and no lift, no special springs etc....and this is ALL you have to trim off cladding...it's very easy. Since these are hand made cars, we've heard several instances where people encounter slight variances and tolerances, so you may have a slightly larger or smaller piece to cut, etc... vt. mav said he had to trim cladding to a slightly different degree on each side for his tire/wheel application, so there's sometimes slight variances, but all very doable.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PictureVX_KODAK_MOMENTS_664.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/DSC_0579.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/DSC_0564.JPG

stangri
09/02/2010, 07:54 PM
Wow, thank you so much for photos, it's actually much smaller trim-job than I though! I'm guessing my little rotary tool would be inefficient here -- what did you use if you trimmed it yourself or did you have it done at the shop?

I've seen some cheap security systems which supposedly have immobilizer and the trunk release button on ebay. If I do install immobilizer I'll be saving about $120-$150 a year on insurance so I figured I better install the immobilizer than invest in remotes/new blanks.

Besides that there're two more gadgets I'm thinking of installing -- the TPMS (which I bought a few years ago for my landcruiser but ended up selling the truck before I installed TPMS) and the rear view cam/sensors. Last time I test-drove VX I forgot to take the measure -- what's the size of that insert in the rear door where JDM models have cam installed?

PS. At 25 bucks I think I better get the original remote just in case. Are the following the correct instructions for programming?

Open the driver’s door.

Insert key into ignition.

Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 3 seconds – go as fast as yo can, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)

Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.

Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times (again, do this within 3 seconds.)

Within 10 seconds, close and open the door. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.

Within 20 seconds, press the LOCK button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once.

Within 20 seconds, press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter’s code.

Repeat steps 7 and 8 for each transmitter to be added.

Remove key from ignition.

hyperkid
09/02/2010, 08:31 PM
I'm saving up for this bad boy

http://www.lesscoelectronics.com/MITO_50_GENK3545_3_5_RCD_Mirror_Autodim_Homelink_p/50-genk3545.htm

Gentex 50-GENK3545 3.5" Electrochromic rearview mirror monitor

??*Built in 3 button Homelink garage door opener
??*Auto-dimming rear view mirror
??*Built in compass
??*Built in map light
??*Monitor is completely invisible when off
??*Built in map light
??*Unit is designed to mount to factory rearview mirror mounting point
??*High brightness 3.5" 800 nit LCD monitor
??*Operating Voltage: 9.0 to 16.0 Vdc
??*Operating Temperature: -40º to 140º
??*Storage Temperature: -40º to 165º
??*Maximum Current: 1.5 amps
??*One RCA video input
??*Dimensions: 10.5" (W) x 3 1/4" (H)

It's similar to Marlin's mirror but with lots more goodies

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=16619&highlight=rearview+mirror

Riff Raff
09/02/2010, 08:32 PM
Ah, also I'm a bit concerned about putting bigger than stock tires -- if I go for a wider tire (285/60) how can I ensure the fitment so that I wouldn't have to trim cladding?

VX-KAT--- Excellent post, with excellent pictures. This shows exactly what area of the front cladding that is trimmed when using fatter 285 series tires, and specifically the 285/60R18 (31.4" O.D.).

STANGRI--- Most tire shops have air-powered circular "mini-saws" and can easily cut through the plastic cladding like butter. Just take a little bit off at a time, until the desired clearance is acheived. If you're still a bit skittish about going under the knife and trimming your front cladding, then perhaps come down to a slightly narrower/smaller tire to size 275/60R18 (31" O.D.). The skinnier 275 series won't invade into the front cladding as much and will still give the VX a more pronounced wider stance than stock. You won't know if they rub until they're actually fitted on the VX; however the narrower 275 width combined with the reduced O.D. of 31" will "likely" fit bolt-on perfect without any rubbing. Each VX is slightly different from the factory-- what clears on one VX, might barely rub on another VX. You'll just have to test-fit to find out.

I also wonder if you consider my previous A/T recommendations having a too aggressive tread design to your liking or lifestyle, and leaning too much to the off-road flavor. With that in mind, I re-focused my tire search for a more "street" tire designed for a rainy wet environment with the majority of your travels on the pavement with an occassional gravel road. Here are my recommendatons in the smaller 275/60R18 (31" O.D.) size:

A. Nitto, NT404 in 275/60R18 (31" O.D./41 lbs). This tire has a great looking modern tread specifically designed for wet/rainy environments like the PNW and would really compliment the modern VX style with a more "street" type of flair. This tire is worthy of your serious consideration.

B. Falken, Ziex S/TZ04 in 275/60R18 (31" O.D./40 lbs). Another upscale tire for the street, but with slightly less water evaluation properties when compared to the more radical Nitto. Eric has these on his VX with commendable remarks (previously stated in this thread).

C. Yokohama, Geolandar A/T-S in 275/60R18 (31" O.D./39 lbs). This is the only true A/T tire made in this unique size. A great rain/snow capable tire, and for venturing off-road when the mood strikes. There are multiple members who have praised this tire on their VX.

The DiscountTire website has a really neat tire calculator that will adjust for your O.D. difference to get your new speedometer reading (most reasonable aftermarket tires will be about 5 MPH off (+/-) from OEM speedometer reading). As with all tires, please read the customer reviews where available on various websites (TireRack is a great source). For example, the Good/Year - Fortera TripleTread (all season & snowflake/mountain rated) tire wears-out like crazy due to its soft rubber compound and is extremely noisy after only very minimal miles. Many people had thought their wheel bearings needed replacement which was actually excessive tire noise from the G/Y Fortera TripleTread.

:bgwb:

VX KAT
09/02/2010, 09:08 PM
At 25 bucks I think I better get the original remote just in case. Are the following the correct instructions for programming?

Open the driver’s door.

Insert key into ignition.

Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 3 seconds – go as fast as yo can, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)

Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.

Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times (again, do this within 3 seconds.)

Within 10 seconds, close and open the door. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.

Within 20 seconds, press the LOCK button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once.

Within 20 seconds, press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter’s code.

Repeat steps 7 and 8 for each transmitter to be added.

Remove key from ignition.

That's the first set of instructions I got, and they're a bunch of hooey!
Here's the easy/simple/correct instructions:

PROGRAMMING INSTRUCTIONS
VEHICROSS: 99-01
Remote added or replaced:

1. ACCESS THE PROGRAMMING BUTTON ON THE REMOTE ALARM CENTRAL LOCKING CONTROL MODULE LOCATED ABOVE THE LEFT KICK PANEL – GREEN BUTTON
2. TURN IGNTION TO ON
3. PUSH AND HOLD THE PROGRAMMING BUTTON FOR 2 SECONDS
4. THE SYSTEM WARNING LAMP WILL ILLUMINATE FOR 5 SECONDS
5. WHILE THE SYSTEM WARNING LAMP IS LIT UP:
- PRESS AND HOLD THE REMOTE LOCK & UNLOCK BUTTON
6. THE WARNING LAMP WILL EXTINGUISH
7. AN ACOUSTIC SOUND IS EMITTED ONCE & THE PARKING LAMPS WILL FLASH ONCE
8. TURN IGNITION SWITCH TO OFF
9. Confirm successful programming by locking and unlocking vehicle.
10. Repeat above procedure to program remaining remotes.




Many of us have had a hatch popper installed, with a switch wired to somewhere in the dash. I put mine in the "fuzzy hole" on the left side. I had my audio shop do it all and it was like $135 for parts & labor. That includes installing the solenoid and popper thing in the hatch. Don't think anybody has ever been successful in getting the 2nd button on the OEM remote to pop the hatch however. I found one post here from a guy a long time ago that claimed to get his to work, so I gave his instructions to my shop and they said it wouldn't work....so, I didn't pursue it. If you don't pop the button, you have to open hatch with the key.

You can see my black button on the right side of the fuzzy hole. (That's my CB mic hanger in the front BTW). Wasn't sure you knew what the "fuzzy hole" was, so thought I'd include the picture.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_1860.JPG

RickOKC
09/02/2010, 09:13 PM
Hey Stangri,

I used a sawzall with a "fine" blade (for metal.) It cut through the cladding like a light saber through gravy - just effortlessly! Riff Raff mentioned that most tire shops have something available to trim the cladding, but that's not a guarantee. The worthless POS jack-wagons where I had my tires mounted were dead set on making sure my tires would not fit. I don't know if they were monumentally stupid or trying to prove me wrong when I said they would fit or were just hoping I would pay to have the old tires put back on and then pay a third time to re-mount my new tires after I had trimmed the cladding and brought my VX back. So, be prepared - bring your own cutting tool and be prepared to use it yourself. There is a high probability that I'm the only person to ever encounter this situation, but that's how my life works. :o

One other thing to keep in mind - taller tires mean your speedometer & odometer no longer register correctly. I don't know if that will bother you or not, but it could mean your speed is off by as much as 10%.

The little removable piece for the back-up camera in the half-moon is 2-1/2" wide. The height is 1-1/8" on the sides and tapers up to 1-1/4" tall in the center.

I didn't actually read what you posted regarding programming a new key-fob remote, but there is a set of instructions posted here (http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Encyclopedia&op=viewarticle&id=38).

Best of luck,
--Rick

VX KAT
09/02/2010, 09:24 PM
Hey Stangri,

I used a sawzall with a "fine" blade (for metal.) It cut through the cladding like a light saber through gravy - just effortlessly! Riff Raff mentioned that most tire shops have something available to trim the cladding, but that's not a guarantee. The worthless POS jack-wagons where I had my tires mounted were dead set on making sure my tires would not fit. I don't know if they were monumentally stupid or trying to prove me wrong when I said they would fit or were just hoping I would pay to have the old tires put back on and then pay a third time to re-mount my new tires after I had trimmed the cladding and brought my VX back. So, be prepared - bring your own cutting tool and be prepared to use it yourself. There is a high probability that I'm the only person to ever encounter this situation, but that's how my life works. :o

One other thing to keep in mind - taller tires mean your speedometer & odometer no longer register correctly. I don't know if that will bother you or not, but it could mean your speed is off by as much as 10%.

The little removable piece for the back-up camera in the half-moon is 2-1/2" wide. The height is 1-1/8" on the sides and tapers up to 1-1/4" tall in the center.

I didn't actually read what you posted regarding programming a new key-fob remote, but there is a set of instructions posted here (http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Encyclopedia&op=viewarticle&id=38).

Best of luck,
--Rick
One thing I like about dealing with privately owned shops, they can do what they want...my tire shop cut the cladding for me no problem, no hesitation. I can imagine the chain stores might decline to do it.

Here's a real nice "tire calculator" with great visualization of the difference between 2 tires sizes, it also provides all the calculations (width, tall, circumference etc)....plus it gives the speedometer differential so you'll know exactly what your real speed it. Mine came out to be 10%...nice and easy to calculate.
http://www.rimsntires.com/rt_specs.jsp


And yes, Rick's link to the key fob programming instructions are correct, same as the one I listed above.

hyperkid
09/02/2010, 10:04 PM
Here's your option button

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=16729&highlight=option+button

RickOKC
09/02/2010, 10:26 PM
One thing I like about dealing with privately owned shops, they can do what they want...my tire shop cut the cladding for me no problem, no hesitation. I can imagine the chain stores might decline to do it.

Here's a real nice "tire calculator" with great visualization of the difference between 2 tires sizes, it also provides all the calculations (width, tall, circumference etc)....plus it gives the speedometer differential so you'll know exactly what your real speed it. Mine came out to be 10%...nice and easy to calculate.
Ha ha... you nailed it - it was a chain store that wanted to create problems where none existed!

How funny - my speed is also exactly 10% off. I gotta agree - it makes the math real easy (although I have been cheating by keeping the ScanGauge II attached.)

stangri
09/03/2010, 02:43 AM
Wow, thank you all guys.

hyperkid -- for $500 I don't see many of VX owners getting those mirrors unless they play DVD, have built-in Bluetooth and Navigation and get you out of tickets. Even then, it'd be more suitable on an Escalade. :)

Riff -- thanks again for your valuable feedback on tires, I'm really hoping to get 2k miles out of the tires currently installed on the car so that I could get the new tires on closer to home. I'll see which ones will be easier/cheaper to get between Nitto NT404 and Geolandar as I've heard a lot of good comments on both these models previously when I had a little truck. However if trimming is that easy I might as well go for 285 tires as they would provide more grip especially in rain/snow.

KAT -- Finally!!! I've seen the similar button in a similar location on one of the VXes here in WA (which I passed on because it was too rusty) and both me (understandably) and the dealer (surprisingly) were clueless as to what did it do! :) Well, now I know. :) And thanks for the programming instructions. I also wanted to share the tire calculator I've used: http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual-tyre-size-calculator not because it's better or anything, but you know, some sites go down from time to time, it's nice to have options. :)

Rick -- thanks for the feedback on trimming, programming and the backup cam sizes.

I realize it might not be the smartest move to plan putting that many gadgets (immobilizer, backup cam, tpms) in at the same time, but if I end up removing dash -- then why not.

I'm concerned about the immobilizer tho. I believe to be counted for an insurance discount it has to be passive (auto-arming) and it has to cut both the ignition and the fuel-pump power supply and I'm having problem finding a suitable system even within $200-$300 range. I've checked the usual suspects (clifford, viper, pyton) but there's surprisingly very little information about the immobilizer feature (or maybe it's not worded in layman's terms I'd understand). Anyone has any feedback?

hyperkid
09/03/2010, 09:00 AM
Pyle makes one that includes the backup camera display + bluetooth and is around 100 bucks. there are other manufacturers that make them with bluetooth and NAV. And it's not really $500 that was just one vendor I found the same model I was looking at before for $200 less i just didn't do enough searching. the Rydeen model is pretty slick

http://www.google.com/products?q=bluetooth+mirror+nav+backup&hl=en&aq=f

And I think cool gadgets like that are perfect for the VX. I get more heads turning on my VX than any escalade.

I may even think about this one and take out my garmin.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=azentek+smart+mirror&aq=f

I'm gonna start a thread on this would love to get some input.

VX KAT
09/03/2010, 10:01 AM
Wow, thank you all guys.

hyperkid -- for $500 I don't see many of VX owners getting those mirrors unless they play DVD, have built-in Bluetooth and Navigation and get you out of tickets. Even then, it'd be more suitable on an Escalade........ AutoWeek Magazine calls them a 'SCLADE ;)

KAT -- Finally!!! I've seen the similar button in a similar location on one of the VXes here in WA (which I passed on because it was too rusty) and both me (understandably) and the dealer (surprisingly) NOT SURPISING AT ALL!! MOST HAVE NEVER SEEN ONE AND HAVE VERY LITTLE KNOWLEDGE ABOUT THEM......YOU'LL ALWAYS KNOW MORE THAN THE SALES PERSON! were clueless as to what did it do! :)

:thumbup:

hyperkid
09/03/2010, 10:25 AM
My friend in WV has a SCLADE and he constantly has issues. His traction control system always says it needs serviced and has been in and out of the shop for transmission issues. About a month ago his tailgate stopped working.

UPDATE - just talked to him he says he was driving and the heat turned on blowing very HOT air and wouldn't turn off no matter what he did.

VXR
09/03/2010, 05:03 PM
Don't use any synthetic fluid in the transmission...it won't like it.


???? I put Royal Purple MAX ATF synth transmission fluid in over a year ago. Several other forum members use it too...what's the issue with using synth in our transmission?? Did I miss something significant?

I have Mobil 1 in the trans now with no problems:yesb:

Riff Raff
09/03/2010, 06:52 PM
If trimming is that easy I might as well go for 285 tires as they would provide more grip especially in rain/snow.

STANGRI--- Glad to be of help. Yes, the 285/60R18 is the absolute perfect size to mount on the OEM 18x7 Stock Rims and may require just the tiny inner triangle of the cladding to be trimmed as in the pictures from VX-KAT. However; do not trim until after the tires are test-fitted first, you may discover that no trimming may even be required at all.

I was curious about your winter weather in the City of Burnaby, BC so I checked out the statistics on Wikipedia.com. It said..........The elevation of Burnaby ranges from sea level to a maximum of 370 metres (1,200 ft) atop Burnaby Mountain. Due to its elevation, the City of Burnaby experiences quite a bit more of snowfall during the winter months compared to nearby Vancouver or Richmond. Overall, the physical landscape of Burnaby is one of hills, ridges, valleys and an alluvial plain.

In addition, the weather chart shows Burnaby gets about 12" of snow per month during the dead of winter and about 40" total snow for the entire winter season annually.

Having said that, my original recommendation of the lightweight Pro-Comp, All-Terrain in 285/60R18 might be your very best bet to combat Burnaby's rain and snow. Here's why:

Pro-Comp, All-Terrain in 285/60R18 (31.3" O.D./43 lbs)

o All-Terrain (A/T) tread pattern.
o Snowflake/Mountain rated (a rarity in itself).
o Extremely lightweight at only 43 lbs each for low unsprung weight.
o Super-deep tread depth of 18/32nds (normally only found on M/T tires).
o 50,000 mile tread warranty.
o $202.20 each at www.Tires-Easy.com. They also normally come on sale at www.4WheelParts.com with a Buy-3, get the 4th free deal.

I challenge you to beat these combined specifications of ANY other 285/60R18 tire made in the world. You'll quickly discover no other A/T tire can even come close in comparison in that specific size.

For awesome close-up pictures of this tire mounted on a 100% stock non-lifted VX using the OEM 18x7 Stock Rims, please visit the photo gallery of fellow VX member "BoarderCross2000" from Sacramento, CA (click-on "Members" on left-side of homepage). You might even send him a PM or E-Mail and ask his opinion of the tire.

:bgwb:

stangri
09/05/2010, 10:39 PM
Oh, one more thing I realized -- if I get wider tires, the full-size spare wouldn't fit in the trunk door anymore, would it?

What would happen if I'd get a flat and need to put a spare on?

PK
09/05/2010, 11:36 PM
Oh, one more thing I realized -- if I get wider tires, the full-size spare wouldn't fit in the trunk door anymore, would it?

What would happen if I'd get a flat and need to put a spare on?

The spare in the rear door is not normal size anyway.
It is commonly called a pizza cutter (full standard height tyre, but very narrow).
You can only use it as an emergency tyre to get you to a service centre, and is limited to a speed of approx 30 mph IIRC.

If you want to carry a full size spare (standard size or larger) you will have to mount it elsewhere.
Others have them mounted outside the rear door, or up on their roof rack, or if you take the rear seats out, you can mount it inside the cargo space.

PK

VX KAT
09/06/2010, 12:51 AM
Oh, one more thing I realized -- if I get wider tires, the full-size spare wouldn't fit in the trunk door anymore, would it?

What would happen if I'd get a flat and need to put a spare on?

Some other IMPORTANT notes....

~because of how the TOD works, it requires that all 4 tires be really really close to the same circumference...so you can't (shouldn't) put a single brand new tire on if the other 3 are fairly worn down...changes the circumference too much and MANY have reported hearing some horrible clunking sounds that are completely resolved when 4 equal size and amount of tread (and pattern for that matter) tires are put on.
You do have some lee-way, but many here have had the nasty clunking that it just can't be good for the TOD to do it. It's probably a good idea to buy 5 new tires when you do your tire upgrade. And also keep in mind, the 5th tire must be put into the rotation so its tread wears down at approximately the same rate as the other 4, so when you need it, it's really close to the same circumference.

~Tom4Bren and Marlin have both have their full size spares mounted to the rear hatch door. Both have posted pics in their galleries of the mounting brackets used. Some have said they worry the weight of the tire/wheel would be too much for the rear hatch door hinges. I believe both guys are pretty "gentle" when using their hatch for that reason. I think it looks great personally, BUT, my hatch hinges went hinky on me after 1 day of off roading in Moab in 2009 and I couldn't shut my hatch completely.....somebody fixed it for me that night, but it made me think that I don't want to put any more stress on the hinges, certainly not 77 lbs extra pounds (OEM rim weighs about 28, my tires weigh 49 lbs). My luck, the whole back door would fall off when I'm driving along....:rollo:

As PK said, those of us with oversized tires, most (like myself) have mounted the full size spare in a roof cargo basket. If you plan that, make sure the cargo basket is large enough to fit the tire. For example, the smaller Thule Xpedition rack 695 that some have, does NOT fit a 285/60-18 tire (pics in my gallery), only the larger Thule Xpedition basket 696 fits a larger spare..see how vt_maverick just mounted his in his Thule basket this week. Marlin cut part of his basket in the middle to allow his full size spare to fit there when he wants it mounted there (see his gallery for pics).

As PK said, if you want, you can remove the backseat and mount it in the back.
Rowhard just finished a mounting system there..check his gallery for pics and the thread. Also, Jolly Roger VX'er, custom mounted his there. http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11275/ppuser/505

I plan on bringing mine down from my rack and laying it FLAT in the back (seats removed) and ratcheting it down in an "X" pattern to the metal floor hooks back there. I'll put it back up in the basket for certain activities, in the back cargo area for other activities.
(Aw geez, what did I just do?...there's at least 4 words in this paragraph that will light up PK...:goof:)

~which brings me to your issue....yes, our spare tire is called a "donut" as it's not a full size tire. The owners manual states (somewhere) if you get a flat on the REAR, do not put the donut on the rear. Move a good front tire to the rear, and put the donut on the front....and get to a tire shop very soon. Like PK said, I think 30 mph (or maybe a little more, can't quite recall specific speed), and I think the rule of thumb is no more than 50 miles (but I'd never go that far on a donut personally).

Riff Raff
09/06/2010, 04:27 AM
~which brings me to your issue....yes, our spare tire is called a "donut" as it's not a full size tire. The owners manual states (somewhere) if you get a flat on the REAR, do not put the donut on the rear. Move a good front tire to the rear, and put the donut on the front....and get to a tire shop very soon.

In a nutshell, the donut spare will suffice nicely in case of a flat and it is capable of 45 MPH as indicated on a bright red sticker attached to the donut rim itself. As VX-KAT said, the key is to only use the donut on the FRONT axle (never the rear); and if a flat occurs on the rear, then a good tire must be relocated from the front. This is because the TOD system is very sensitive to mis-matched tires on the rear axle, and is much more forgiving to mis-matched tires on the front axle (just get the original flat fixed ASAP).

Is it worth getting a full-size spare??? I would say, NO.
Just ask yourself these questions:

o When was the last time you ever got a flat???
o If you did get a flat-- how close were you to civilization and able to quickly find a nearby service station/repair shop???
o Do you constantly want to lug around a heavy and bulky full-size spare, when the OEM donut will easily suffice on the front axle in a rare emergency and be able to limp yourself back home or to a nearby repair shop???

Today's truck tires are very durable and tough, and are very unlikely to ever get a flat unless you are in the extreme outback wilderness. If you do ever plan on venturing out in the dead of wilderness; then yes, take along a full-size spare for the occasion (it can just be a cheapo rim, with a skinny tire having the same O.D.). Once you're back home in the urban environment, then toss the cheapo full-size spare back into the garage.

Constantly lugging around a heavy, bulky full-size spare tire 24/7 is a total waste of cargo space (interior located), creates excessive wind-drag (roof-top located), and lowers your MPG overall with the extra additional weight. It simply isn't worth the hassle in today's modern world of cell phones, AAA, and available mobile tire repair services that will gladly come out to your roadside location to fix your existing flat (that is if you ever get a flat in your lifetime). Don't waste your money on a full-size spare unless you plan on venturing deep into the outback wilderness. Use the OEM donut on the front axle for that rare emergency that will likely never happen.

:bgwb:

stangri
09/08/2010, 05:20 AM
PK, Kat, Riff -- thanks again! Donut should be sufficient to me.

So last (hopefully) question about the tires -- I've checked the workshop manual pdf (well, before my pdf viewer crashed) and couldn't find this info there -- what are the Isuzu recommended tire pressure for front/rear and if I go for 285/60/18 tires, the pressure's the same, right?

deermagnet
09/08/2010, 06:01 AM
The '99 and '00 manuals say the same thing-

http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/img/vx3/99tires.gif

It should be in the door jam as well, like most vehicles. I don't think many of us run with the pressure that low. Mine are at ~34 PSI and I've never seen even the slightest sign of uneven tire wear.

Mark

stangri
09/08/2010, 06:04 AM
Thanks Mark! Are you also running wider tires?

deermagnet
09/08/2010, 06:16 AM
Are you also running wider tires?

Heck no! I've always had stock size tires so my speedo and odo have always been correct.

Mark

VX KAT
09/08/2010, 09:50 AM
PK, Kat, Riff -- thanks again! Donut should be sufficient to me.

So last (hopefully) question about the tires -- I've checked the workshop manual pdf (well, before my pdf viewer crashed) and couldn't find this info there -- what are the Isuzu recommended tire pressure for front/rear and if I go for 285/60/18 tires, the pressure's the same, right?

The manual/Isuzu will NEVER give any recommendations on air pressure other than OEM.

Depends partly on what specific tire you actually get, have to look and see what it's max tire pressure is, as listed on the sidewall, then go from there.

Both 285/60-18 Cooper Zeon LTZs and Nitto TerraGrapplers have a max of 50 psi listed. Since I regularly drive on rocky/dirt roads, even 44 was just too rough and jarring for my liking, so I choose to run a little lower...front 41, rear 40 psi. Just an FYI, you'll get a bit higher MPG the higher pressure you run (but of course, don't exceed the max recommended).

tom4bren
09/08/2010, 10:13 AM
Absolutely agree with KAT. The limiting factor on tire pressure is the tire, not the rim or vehicle. Go with the rating on the tire even if it doesn't agree with what is posted on the door jam or in the manual.

Riff Raff
09/08/2010, 11:12 PM
Absolutely agree with KAT. The limiting factor on tire pressure is the tire, not the rim or vehicle. Go with the rating on the tire even if it doesn't agree with what is posted on the door jam or in the manual.

x3. The stock VX from the factory is already a very stiff riding vehicle due to its short wheelbase and true truck suspension (not a car with a fake truck body kit like most crossover SUV's).

Tire pressure is a very personal issue, and varies from person-to-person, based upon many factors such as desired traction, ride comfort, ease of steering, tire wear, and MPG. Personally, I always recommend running aftermarket tires at the max PSI "Per Tire Sidewall Panel" for the very best MPG, ease of steering, load carrying capacity, and reduced tire wear. If a person decides that the max PSI rating is just too stiff and bone-jarring to their liking (or their wifey), then reduce the PSI slightly to a more tolerable comfort level in incremental steps.

Many owner's complain their MPG suffers greatly after installing oversize aftermarket tires. This is primarily due to a combination of increased tire drag (wind resistance, rolling resistance, aggressive tire tread pattern, etc) and increased individual tire weight (the OEM 245/60R18 only weighs 34 lbs each). By choosing a lightweight tire (preferably within 10 lbs of OEM tire weight or a max individual tire weight of 44 lbs each for the VX), and running at the max PSI "Per Tire Sidewall Panel" will offer the very best in tire wear longivity and MPG.

:bgwb:

hyperkid
09/08/2010, 11:37 PM
Riff you really are the tire King aren't you...

stangri
09/18/2010, 11:56 AM
I'm still on the road with lousy connection so if any of these are answered in the manual (which I was smart enough not to take a digital copy of on the trip) please forgive me...
1. The "reading" lights in the rear-view mirror don't work -- is it a common issue with the bulbs/maybe fuse burning out or is it an indication of something evil brewing in my car? :)
2. KAT -- that green reset button on the security block it's a tiny recessed button which I need a paperclip or a pen to press, right?
3. The small plastic clip which holds the hood-arm in place when the hood is closed is broken in this car -- has anyone had an experience buying a non-Isuzu part for this?
4. Oh and I need one of these screws which keep spare tire cover in place, where can I get it?

I've had more questions but after flying San Francisco-Chicago-Indianapolis and then driving from Indianapolis thru Chicago/Rockford/Madison to Minneapolis in a span of 20 hours I was too exhausted to write everything down before I collapsed.

VX KAT
09/18/2010, 01:11 PM
I'm still on the road with lousy connection so if any of these are answered in the manual (which I was smart enough not to take a digital copy of on the trip) please forgive me...

2. KAT -- that green reset button on the security block it's a tiny recessed button which I need a paperclip or a pen to press, right?

Yes, correct, I used a retractable pen (retracted).

Hang in there!

stangri
10/04/2010, 07:07 PM
So I've got the 285/60/R18 All Terrain Pro-Comps which (along with the installer) came highly recommended by Riff Raff. All I can say is WOW! There was zero difference in traction between the dry and wet road (it rained quite heavily today north of Mount Vernon but cleared up when I crossed the border to Canada).

CowboyErik
10/04/2010, 07:49 PM
MY TAKE!
2. Oil & filter will probably need replacing - BETTER DO IT BEFORE YOU DRIVE IT BACK! EARLY VX ENGINES BURN A QUART EVER 3 TANKS OF GAS! MINE DOES! LACK OF DRAIN BACK HOLES IN PISTON RINGS

So the questions I have are:
1. VX currently has stock rims -- what sort of tires are best for driving on wet roads? STOCK! TO PRESERVE THE VX INTEGRITY! I PUT FIRESTONE INDY 500 ALL SEASON TIRES, RAISED WHITE LETTER, CHECKOUT FEEDBACK ON TIRE RACK, BEST TIRES ON THE MARKET IN MY OPINION, GRIP ON EVERYTHING AND NEVER BLOWOUT!


2. Are there national mechanic chains which specialize in the oil changes? Are they likely to have suitable oil filter for VX? OIL CHANGES ON VX ARE EASY, NO LIFT NEEDED CAUSE THE CAR SITS SO HIGH, OIL FILTER IS IS ON/OFF TWO! FILL WITH 5 QUARTS OF GOOD OIL FROM WALMART!

3. What are the Isuzu recommended major services -- I BOUGHT MY VX WITH 90K; I'VE REPACKED MY FRONT WHEELS AT $300 BUCK; DONE ALL MY ON TRANSAXLE WORK, FLUIDS, CHEAP; THERE ARE 5 PLACES/PANS TO DRAIN, FLUSH/FILL. MY INTAKE MANIFOLD HAD MASS CARBON BUILD UP, HAD A SHOP TAKE IT OFF AND CLEAN, IT CLEARED ERROR CODES FROM AL THE CLODDED CARBON; TIMING BELT WAS MOST EXPENSIVE JOB, MESSY, NO EASY, DID TENSIONER, A MUST, $800 JOB i THINK, MAYBE LESS; AND YOU'LL NEED LOTS OF GAS, 12MILES TO A GALLON SINKS THE FUEL GAUGE FAST!

4. Finally -- what should be used to de-badge the car? How do I remove all the logos from the back, sides and the grill of the car? :) I BOUGHT NEW OEM LOGOS TO REPLACE FADED, CRACKED OR DAMAGED ONES, THE ONLY LOGO I ADDED WAS A DALLAS COWBOYS STAR TO THE GLARE SHIELD, WHICH I HAD TO BUY A NEW ONE($300) CAUSE THE OLD ONES BOLTS WERE ALL RUSTED, BROKE COMING OFF, BECAUSE THERE IS PAINT UNDER IT, AND I WANTED TO CLEAN AND WAX; KEEPING THE NEW ONE OUTTA THE RAIN!

WELCOME TO THE MISSION TO MARS CLUB! 1998!

Riff Raff
10/04/2010, 08:36 PM
So I've got the 285/60/R18 All Terrain Pro-Comps which (along with the installer) came highly recommended by Riff Raff. All I can say is WOW! There was zero difference in traction between the dry and wet road (it rained quite heavily today north of Mount Vernon but cleared up when I crossed the border to Canada).

Glad to hear it, Stangri!!! Spec-for-Spec; the Pro-Comp, All-Terrain in 285/60R18 is simply the true A/T King in that specific size and has no equal. A tad bit expensive, but worth every penny. Their combination of lightweight (only 43 lbs each), incredible traction, durability and Snowflake/Mountain rating is unmatched by any other tire on the market in the 285/60R18 size. If you think they work great in the dry and the wet; then just wait for the snow or if you venture off-road, as you will be equally impressed.:yeso: