HD tie rod adjuster

[Marlin]

So, lookin at getting heavy duty tie rod adjusters, Ind4X doesn't have them anymore, stinky doesn't make them either. Any other ideas? Maybe someone has used set from a wrecked, or just not used anymore? What else should I upgrade, other than sway bar bushings (will be here in a few days). I have extra full set of tierod ends, OEM brand new. Thanks for any input.

[taylorRichie]

https://id211.chi.us.securedata.net/independent4x.com/merchantmanager/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=tie+rod&x=0&y=0

Looks like INDY still has them to me...

But Beau (ascinder) made his own. Might want to contact him. I have the Indy's though I'm not impressed, I think they use the incorrect size rod end... they send it with washers (bad bad) and by the time I got them tightened there was no room for a boot to survive so I just keep them lubed... hindsight? Would have stayed stock.

[Marlin]

I didn't know if those were the same, I was going per the info on planetisuzoo. According to that one, they were discontinued, but I will contact beau and get the skinny. Thanks.

[taylorRichie]

You just need the Isuzu IFS "LONG" from Indy, but I'd recommend contacting Beau.

[Marlin]

I just PMed him. 200+ seems a bit steep. Thanks again for the lead.

[Triathlete]

I just PMed him. 200+ seems a bit steep. Thanks again for the lead.

I believe the OEM are as much if not more.
Any good off road fab shop should be able to whip a set out though.

[LittleBeast]

I just PMed him. 200+ seems a bit steep. Thanks again for the lead.

$200 might be a little steep, but I don't mind support a shop that still does custom work for our Isuzu's, and has an amazing knowledge in our SUV's and doesn't mind talking with you for however long it takes to help you out. AND on top of that you will not find better made parts, you buy this upper and you will never be in risk of breaking one ever again. You get what you pay for, and part of that in this situation is supporting a great company that is still supporting our dying bread of 4x4's :)

[Marlin]

$200 might be a little steep, but I don't mind support a shop that still does custom work for our Isuzu's, and has an amazing knowledge in our SUV's and doesn't mind talking with you for however long it takes to help you out. AND on top of that you will not find better made parts, you buy this upper and you will never be in risk of breaking one ever again. You get what you pay for, and part of that in this situation is supporting a great company that is still supporting our dying bread of 4x4's :)

Hmmmmm, that is true, but I have info from people who do have the Indy adjusters, and they said they were not impressed. I am just shopping around, and I have ordered other parts from Indy ,but I also like the idea of not getting stuck with just one vendor. I am gonna swing by Lowcountry 4x4 here in Charleston, and I am betting they have never seen a Vx before. So it should drum up some attention there. Hopefully, they can work something out. We shall see.

Once I hook up with the planetisuzoo group ina few weeks, I will find out my options here on the East Coast as well. There are some amazing rigs in that group. A Honda Passport on 38s...never would have thought of such a thing:)

[Triathlete]

A Honda Passport on 38s...never would have thought of such a thing:)

If that is the one I think it is I am sure you will find lots of Indy parts on it.:cool:

[rowhard]

I believe the OEM are as much if not more.
Any good off road fab shop should be able to whip a set out though.

Any job machine shop, just take them the stock, length you want, (measure the OEM on the truck) and the thread pitch and how deep you want it threaded. If you happen to have a tech school handy that has a machine shop program, should be able to get it done for free or next to nothing. Use your old rod ends or order new.

[Triathlete]

Use your old rod ends or order new.

If you want heavy duty you'd definately want something a bit bigger than stock. I looked at one of Indy's at the San Diego meet (Rickshaw has a pair) and the rod ends are a lot beefier than stock.

[JoFotoz]

Indy4x4 has them...I just ordered a set.

Call and ask for Matt or Clint

https://id211.chi.us.securedata.net/independent4x.com/merchantmanager/product_info.php?cPath=63_88&products_id=57


Bigger ends and the threaded section and 'bar' are huge!



Yup..$229...but worth every penny IMO....its one of the major weak links...

...pay now...or REALLY pay later.


Hey..mention their advert in the "pin up calendar"...they'll look after you!...:cool:


jo

[newthings]

Andy Miller (Swordy) built a few sets of improved tie rods. I was fortunate to get a pair.
Here is some discussion on the project.
As many know, Andy was a real pioneer with our trucks and went just about everywhere and did just about everything. He was a master of repairs in the field.
He found weaknesses and made improvements. Andy, Tone and Bob Graber (Grandpa Bob/ Dragon Bob) were the cutting edge of proving what the VX can do.
Andy was going to market the rods, but has pretty much dropped off the net. If you are listening Andy, thanks for all that you have done and I hope all is well with you.


Roy writes-
I got the rod ends today. They are Perfect Circle brand.
The Zerk fittings were self-tapping.
Even with the cardboard tubes, the threads had a few dings and I had to dress them so the threads would not bind.
The pretty rod paint job is going to get killed when the vise grips bite into the tubes to adjust the alignment. The cost of milling flats would not be worth it unless you had your own mill and it would make a weak spot.
Auto Zone has the best price at $22.00 (In 2002)
Part Numbers-
ES262L
ES262R

Roy writes-
The Tie Rod Tubes are 4130.
I make the tube wall to be .22".
I don't think heat treating should be required.
Annealed material is about 65000 lbs. /in2 tensile strength.
Discount 50% for the thread notch or 33ksi. The cross-section is .583 in2 or 19ksi. The stock 5/8" rod was 119ksi, 50% discount to 60ksi, with an area of (13mm at thread root or .51" diameter) .204in2. This means the stock rod strength is an estimated 12.24ksi. So, in terms of the tube, it would be 1/3 stronger and the local strain on the thread root will be spread over a larger area.
The new rod end compares to the stock 14mm (13mm root) at 12.24 ksi to the new area of .307in2 at an estimated strength of the forged an heat treated new rod end of 60ksi (119ksi discounted 50%) to 18.4 ksi.

Andy Miller wrote-
The new tie rods have the same taper as the stock ones, and 11/16-18 threaded rods. The Jam nuts I've found at a place online, they are like $3.
The tubes had to be tapped to fit the rod ends.
The right hand tap was like $30, but the left hand tap was over $100.
The 4130 DOM steel tubing is 1.065 OD and 0.624 ID (same size as the tap drill I'd need).

Next thing that might break will probably be a rod end, although the rod ends are 11/16", I think that they are now the stronger, cheaper, weakest link, as rod ends are only like 27 bucks...

Andy
BTW These rod ends are also available with 3/4" threads.

[Triathlete]

NT...Swordy still has his VX as far as I know. He dropped out of the wheeling when he hurt his back about 3 years ago. I am sure he would he happy to answer any questions you guys might have about any of his VX mods. His info is in his bio (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/member.php?u=121). He was lifted and locked front and rear and had made many heavy duty parts for his VX including the tie rods.

[JoFotoz]

My 2cents worth...

Dont re-invent the wheel.

Indy4x has done the work...and they WORK.

jo

[VCrossfan]

NT...Swordy still has his VX as far as I know. He dropped out of the wheeling when he hurt his back about 3 years ago. I am sure he would he happy to answer any questions you guys might have about any of his VX mods. His info is in his bio (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/member.php?u=121). He was lifted and locked front and rear and had made many heavy duty parts for his VX including the tie rods.

Some of my fav Swordy Pic's

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/509/medium/121goldencrack1.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/501/medium/P5194888.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/121paw_up.jpg

[Marlin]

Some of my fav Swordy Pic's

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/509/medium/121goldencrack1.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/501/medium/P5194888.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/121paw_up.jpg

WOW!!!!!
That is all I have to say about that VX and the pics.

As far as tie rods, I have the complete OEM end set, brand new, I am gonna swing by Trident Tech next week and see what they can come up with. If not, I will be callin Indy, I do agree with the do not reinvent the wheel concept, I just want to cover all my options. I am seriously considering going with the Stinky Fab "bent" rear links, they are the lowest part of the VX, and I think would be very susceptible to damage on rocks. They also limit my skid plate options in the rear.
I doubt I will do this before Moab, I will also get some contacts at the Uhwarrie meet. 2 weeks till Uhwarrie, 1 month till Moab!!!!!!!!!:bgwb:

[rowhard]

If you want heavy duty you'd definately want something a bit bigger than stock. I looked at one of Indy's at the San Diego meet (Rickshaw has a pair) and the rod ends are a lot beefier than stock.

of course, I was just assuming that the weak link of the tie rod was the center piece. You could step up to any truck rod end, as long as dia. and length is correct and have the 1 inch hex stock drilled and tapped accordingly

[Triathlete]

I am seriously considering going with the Stinky Fab "bent" rear links, they are the lowest part of the VX, and I think would be very susceptible to damage on rocks. They also limit my skid plate options in the rear.
I doubt I will do this before Moab, I will also get some contacts at the Uhwarrie meet. 2 weeks till Uhwarrie, 1 month till Moab!!!!!!!!!:bgwb:

Check for fitment on the bent links. They may hit on your slider mounts. This has been a problem in the past. Another option is to have your stock links "sleeved". Have a fab shop cut off one end, sleeve it and then weld the end back on. Or they can just build you a set of heavy duty links.