Different type of window problem...

[joe-yamma]

I had my old Isuzu dealership fix my driver's window about 1.5 yrs ago, which included having their body shop adjust (widen) and fix the window tracks, etc and install new regulator. Cost around $300 back then.

Put the window down last night and it wouldn't go back up, but just made a grinding sound and I could hardly even pull it up manually. :confused:
Got it home and tore apart the door (PITA w/ the DynoMat!) and found that the cable inside the regulator that moves the window has actually snapped and is just spooled around the winder! :eek:

Just got off the phone w/ Merlin from St Charles... He hooked me up for a decent price (Thanks Merlin).

Just thought some of you that have had window problems would appreciate this story... Anyone else ever have this happen to them?

Joe

[k4tmc]

Joe,

Was that your Ironman at an auto shop in Murrysville around a month ago?

Henry

[MrCrowley]

That doesnt sound like a VX specific failure- but a typical electric window failure. My wife's 1998 Acura CL had the same thing happen. I think it was more of a fray, then tangle, then snap! Luckily, it was just barely under warranty at the time (whew!). I think motor, wiring, brackets, cables, switch, and alignment are about the only components that comprise the window system and can fail. At least it wasnt an expensive motor failure! But it is still inconvenient :sighy:

[gunpackingpoet]

I just recently got my 99 VX back, and managed to fix the window problem on the driver's side. I asked my brother why he disconnected the power window switch on the passenger side, and he said 'because people keep pushing it'... boy was he lying.

I have the same problem right now on that passenger side window. How much did it cost and what exactly did you buy?

How difficult is it to get this up and running?

Thanks!

[rocket man]

I would suggest you reiview some of the old threads on this subject. This is probably THE most often complained about problem in this fantastic vehicle.

I had the same problem with the passenger side not working...I removed the door panel and the plastic seal(looks like a sheet off a "leaf Glad bag") that will give you a peek as to what your problem is...

If it is like mine....the Plastic Supprt Tabs that grip and stabalize the window panel broke..

I simply removed the , "Tabs" enough to "reglue" with a compound called "weld it"...and its been bullet-proof perfect for past 2 years....I did some other stuff too but only because I screwed up and ended up having :_huh: to take out the window lift assembly....thank god this isn't my day yob!!!!......But...da..daaaa!!!....I got all the wires(cables) and do-hickey's reassembled and the whole damn thing worked!!!!....that time I amazed myself!! ;oog;

PS.... it's a Mickey Mouse repair for sure....but in this case Mickey did a better job than " Mr.Isuzu San" and it doesn't cost U $700 bucks...Please check the old posts and good luck!! :p

[joe-yamma]

Joe,
Was that your Ironman at an auto shop in Murrysville around a month ago?
Henry
Nope, not mine (I live in the south hills of the city), but I saw that one too. There's a 99 ebony for sale on West Liberty Ave right now though.

[joe-yamma]

Thanks for the advice rocket man. Unfortunately, the plastic tabs are fine. The dealership re-glued them back when they fixed the old problem. I think they replaced the motor, not the regulator (i'll have to check on my old service report/invoice).

I purchased a new regulator and it was around $80. I'll let you guys know how it goes this weekend when I fix it.

[gunpackingpoet]

Thanks for the advice rocket man. Unfortunately, the plastic tabs are fine. The dealership re-glued them back when they fixed the old problem. I think they replaced the motor, not the regulator (i'll have to check on my old service report/invoice).

I purchased a new regulator and it was around $80. I'll let you guys know how it goes this weekend when I fix it.

Joe, so you bought a new regulator? I assume you couldn't buy that snapped cable, correct? That's the issue I have right now, and I'm hoping to replace it if I can. If I need to buy a regulator, then I will, but I wanted to see how much Merlin let you have it for.

Thanks.

[Bieredalsace]

I'm trying to follow the "threads" but it sounds like others have had the problem of the VX windows not going up smoothly.
Mine aren't going up straight therefore they are binding and have to be coaxed up manually.
I see someone mentioned the plastic tabs (I assume they hold the glass to the window riser mechanism.) Has anyone had the exact same problem where the window has to be pulled forward and back in order to get it to go all the way up?
Is glueing the glass and those tabs together the solution to the problem? I read someone used "Weld-it" epoxy to glue the glass to the tabs.
Is that the answer to the problem?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[joe-yamma]

That sounds like the tracks needed "finessed" and the tabs probably need re-glued. That was the original problem that I had fixed by the dealership (and their body shop).

My latest problem (and the reason that I started this post) was was I thought to be the regulator, but actually turned out to be the motor. More specifically, the gear that meshes with the regulator was worn out, therefore replacement of the entire motor assembly fixed the problem.

[Dino]

I repaired my passenger side window again last night. I took the whole regulator out just to look at what the hec went wrong in the engineering of this thing!!!!!!
There are several weak ponts...
The window clips breaking is probably first thing owners experience.
The reglator design is pretty lame. When you watch it in action, you can see why it goes crooked. It's a lousy design destin to fail. There are three small points of contact made of plastic that ride on the vertical track and are supposed to keep things straight! They wear out and let the window go out of level when it comes up. This self loads the mechanism.. the more it pulls, the greater the resistance because the darn window goes crooked!!

I tried moving the regulator forward. I doesn't help. It's ALL in that little bit of play on the regulator arm. It doesn't amount to anything more than 2 mm at the arm, but out at the ends of the window, it translates into 6 - 8mm. Enough to make it jam.

Another regulator flaw is the fact that the arm can swing away from, and out of the regulator track!!!! Then the window gets REALLY crooked and things break.

It needs a complete redesign. :confused:

Well, I am a metal fabricator/welder ... hmmmmm. :rolleyes:

[Bieredalsace]

Thanks for all the advice. Guess I'll be pulling off the door panels and glueing some stuff together this weekend.
Wish me luck!

[jemorga]

I've been having problems with my driver side window. Same things, had the regulator replaced in Jan when the 40,000 mile service was done. Had to have it fixed again a couple of months ago. Luckily it has a 12,000 mile 12 month warranty on it. My question is-does anyone know if there is any other brand of window stuff that will work on the VX and be much stronger and last longer? It would be nice if there was. Having to constantly have the window fixed is a real problem. It's messing up again so I am going to have to find the time to take it back to the dealer to have it fixed again.

[mrtew]

Put the window down last night and it wouldn't go back up, but just made a grinding sound and I could hardly even pull it up manually. :confused:
Got it home and tore apart the door (PITA w/ the DynoMat!) and found that the cable inside the regulator that moves the window has actually snapped and is just spooled around the winder! :eek:

Just got off the phone w/ Merlin from St Charles... He hooked me up for a decent price (Thanks Merlin).

Just thought some of you that have had window problems would appreciate this story... Anyone else ever have this happen to them?

Joe

Yep I took my door apart today and same thing... the clips were fine but the cable was all shredded and wound up and stuck. So do I have to get a whole new regulator assembly or is there a way to get a cable. And is it easy to install or more like something a shop would do? And how much did you have to pay? And is Merlin still helping us out or is that over?

[rocket man]

Try this link:

http://www.car-parts.com

Go to there home page and follow the interactive prompts. There is a left and right motor assembly and regulator. Prices rage from, "call" to $75-101.00. IMO I'd just get the whole darn assembly motor reg. and all....Most will gladly ship it to you..

For permanent repair suggest the following. Remove the window and glue/epoxy the tabs with Weld It....let the mixture set til starts to thicken and use masking tape to keep Weld It from spreading out too much from the tab.

The weak link, at least in mine, was the nylon bracket that supports the window support...(pardon the inexact nomenclature) This bracket slides on a vertical brace that has the approx. same semi-ellipticle curce as the window. This nylon bracket has a ridge or lip on both sides of the brace that hold it on to the brace. On mine this nylon bracket just wore out from sliding up and down and would pull off the track, once off the slider the windows only support was the cables. The trick is to get the nylon bracket to follow the vertical brace as the window slides up and down. I did this with couple of small screw with oversize heads. The heads of the screws hold it on the track. I also used white grease to help it slide on its track too, but this way its alot stronger than the flimsy nylon bracket that just incrementally wears out going up and down...I should have took pics of this repair on both sides...Sorry I did this a couple of years ago and going by memory...apologize if I confuse you more than help:confused:

Good luck

J